Method and apparatus for constructing and restyling fur coats



May 28, 1957 R. A. THOMAS Filed Aug. 9, 1954 /4 4O iii Q31.

l l I 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. Rwhfbrd J7. Thomas H TTOENE Y y 1957 R. A. THOMAS I 2,793,797

' METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR CONSTRUCTING AND RESTYLING FUR COATS Filed Aug. 9, 1954 2 She ets-Sheet 2 35 i s? 5 I 40 94 rsa 5 "1 3 uvmvrozz Rwhford H Thomas ATTORNEY United States Patent METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR CONSTRUCTING AND RESTYLING FUR COATS Richford A. Thomas, Flint, Mich.

Application August 9, 1954, Serial'No. 448,564

11 Claims. (Cl. 223-61) This invention relates to methods and devices used in manufacturing and restyling fur coats, and is particularly directed toward a novel construction and a manner of operation whereby a single apparatus is used for producing thereon better constructed garments of different sizes, lengths, and styles that fit and hang properly.

Generally, the present invention is in the nature of an improvement of my Patent No. 2,313,374, granted March 9, 1943, on an Apparatus for Reconstructing Fur Coats, and embodies broadly the feature of placing a coat on an apparatus with the fur side next to the surface of the apparatus and the skin side and scams exposed, as defined in my Patent No. 2,685,391, granted August 3,

.1954 for a Method and Apparatus for Making Fur Coats.

The main object of the invention is to provide an extremely simple apparatus on which the body portions of fur coats of all popular sizes, lengths, and styles may be fitted and the different skins and their attaching seams stretched and. shrunk to shape.

Another object of the invention is to provide in an apparatus of the above-indicated character, a flat table top with indicia thereon indicating different sizes and lengths to which the body portion of a fur coat is fitted and dried to shape. a t

.A further object of the invention is to provide in an apparatusof the character set forth, a novel manner and construction for blocking flares of any size or numin flares will retain their proper fullness when the garment is .worn by a personof the s'ize to which the garment is fitted.

A further object of'the invention is to provide in an apparatus of the character set forth, a removable section in the frat table top which may, have substituted therefor another .sectionfor blocking a fur coat toa different -style or for use of the table top for other work..

Still another object of the invention is to provide a flat table top upon which a wetted body portion of a fur coat is adapted to be tacked during stretching and shrinking to size and shape, said table tophaving tapered slots extending therethrough for receiving downwardly directed tapered kyles under which portions of the coat are supported during drying for blocking fullness into the coat. 1

Other. and further objects of the invention willbecome apparent from a reading of the following specification, taken .inconjunction with the drawings, in which:

I Figure 1 is a plan view of the improved table top with a double flare-producing section therein and the "kyles removed; Figure 2 is a similar view showing the body portion cross section takenon line 3-3 'ta'ken-on'liue 4-4 of Figure 2;

Figure 5 is a similar section on line 55 of Figure 2;

Figure 6 is a fragmentary horizontal section taken on line 66 of Figure 3;

Figure 7 is an end view of one of the kyles; and

Figure 8 is a plan view of another removable section of the table top.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the numeral 10 designates generally a table top which is supported by trestles, or the like 11, on a horizontal plane and at a height comfortable for work upon its upper surface by a person while in a standing position. The table top 10 is a rigid structure of rectangular shape and is preferably constructed of a large piece of marine plywood 12 with depending reinforcing strips 13 secured at its marginal edges. The plywood top 12 is of suflicient size to support, on the upper surface thereof in a stretched-out condition, the entire body portion of the largest and longest of all popularly sized coats, and because of the shape of an opened up garment, the top 12 has the opposite parallel sides 14 and 15 thereof of greater length than its ends 16 and 17.

Midway between the ends 16 and 17 and extending entirely to the side 15 and to a location in close proximity to the side 14, the plywood top 12 is cut away providing a large opening 18 into which any one of a number of removable top sections 19 is received. The opening 18 is of keystone shape resulting from having opposite sides thereof slowly converging as they extend from the marported with their upper surfaces flush with the upper surface of the top 12. Where the opening 18 extends entirely to the side 15 of the plywood top 12, the removable top section 19 received in the opening rests on the marginal strip 13 extending along the side 15. -A

cross brace 21 secured to and depending from each removable section 19 is positioned alongside and inwardly of said strip 13. Another cross brace 22 is also secured to the underside of each removablesection 19 but is located at the opposite end thereof for stiffening purposes only.

- All removable sections 19 used in conjunction with the improved apparatus are of the same size, shape, and

general construction, the main difference being in the provision of slots therein which extend longitudinally thereof and transversely of the table top for use in blocking flares in the backs of coats, While there is shown in Figures 1 through 6 a removable section having a pair of slots 23, and in Figure 8 a removable section designated by the numeral 24, minus slots, it is to be understood that removable sections "may be employed with any number of slots and that the size and locations of the slots may vary. On each removable section a center line 25 extends its full length and aligns with a like center line 26 on the plywood top 12 for indicating proper placement of the center of theback of the coat therewith. Also on each removable section, there are pattern markings 27 of neck, shoulder, darts, and portions of sleeve openings to assist in proper placement of coats on the apparatus. There are furthermarkings 23 on each removable section in the form of a plurality of evenly spaced lines that indicate different lengths of coats.

On the plywood top 12 at both sides of the opening 18 are other markings 29 of a pattern outline that align with and include the remainder of the sleeve openings, shoulder, dart, and neck portions. Also aligned with each of the plurality of spaced lines 28 and extending outwardly therefrom onto the plywood top 12 at both sides of the opening are other marked lines 30 which also indicate tions 31 associated therewith. Extending between and intersecting the pattern lines 29 and length lines 30 at both sides of the opening 18 are size lines 32- and at each line is designated a different size, as indicated at 33. To further assist in proper placement of garments on the apparatus are marked lines 34, one at each side of the opening 18 and extending from the sleeve opening past the length lines 30, which indicate approximately where the seams that attach the back to front panels of coats should be located.

Supported in each slot 23 and for use in conjunction therewith in forming flares in coats is a kyle 35 under which the material of coats extends, as clearly illustrated in Figures 3, 4, and 5. The slots 23 are of elongated triangular shape having a pair of long sides 36 that extend throughout the major length of the removable section and a short side 37 parallel to and at the cross brace 21. The longer gradually tapering sides 36 of each slot 23 are rounded together and beveled at an angle where they join, as indicated at 33, and throughout their length round into the Hat top surface of the removable section.

The kyles 35, shown for the purpose of illustration, are of solid wood construction with metallic extensions 39 on one end that engage under angle brackets 40 aligned with the slots 23 and secured on the upper surface of the table top 12. The undersides of the wood portions of the kyles are recessed, as at 41, to receive and overlap rear portions of the extensions for attachment of said extensions by screws 42. The undersurfaces of the kyles and overlapped portions of the extensions are substantially semi-circular in cross section, as at 43, and are arranged longitudinally thereof at an angle to the horizontal flat surface of the table top. This angle may be varied by adjustment of the butt ends 44 of the kyles, either upwardly or downwardly, there being metal plates 45 with spaced holes therein secured to the ends 44 of the kyles, and into different ones of said holes plungers 46 are adapted to engage. Spaced guide rails 47 secured to the inner side of the crossbrace 21 and in surface contact with opposite sides of the plates 46 retain the kyles centered with the slots 23 in all adjusted positions of said butt ends. The plungers 46 are slidable in flanged tubular casings 48 and have knobs 49 thereon for retracting their ends from engagement in holes of the plates 45 and against tension of springs (not shown) also in said casings. The tubular casings are inserted through aligned holes in the reinforcing strip 13 along the edge of the plywood top and the brace 21 for holding the removable section in place, such insertion being accomplished prior to attachment of the kyles 35.

By referring to Figures 2 and 4, it will be observed that the width of the kyles is less than the portions of the slots 23 through which the kyles protrude. This is for the purpose of stretching unsupported skin portions of the coat between the semicircular lower surfaces 43 of the kyles and the rounded edges 36 of the slots 23. Also in these figures of the drawing, there are shown thin perforated tacking strips 50 around and over which the front marginal edges 51 of an unlined and opened up body portion 52 of a fur coat are tacked to the plywood top 12.

In constructing or restyling a fur coat with theimproved apparatus, the unlined and opened up fiat body portion of the coat is placed on the table top with the fur side next to the surface of the table top and the skin side exposed. The coat is then aligned with pattern markings 27 and 29 and with the center line 25. By sliding the extensions 39 of the flare-forming kyles under the brackets 40 and then lowering and fastening the butt ends 44 of the kyles to the desired depths with material of the coat under the kyles, the coat may then be spread out to see 'if there is sufficient material in the coat to form the flares and to meet the size and length requirements indicated 'by the marked lines 32 and 30. Should there not appear to be sufficient material in the coat to meet the desired size and length lines, an adjustment of less depth of protrusion of the kyles below the top surface of the table top may shift sufiicient coat material from the flares to permit alignment of marginal edges of the coat with the proper lines. This, however, may be objectionable because of less fullness in the flares, thus leaving the only other alternative of adding more skins to the coat, which is accomplished by marking on the exposed skin side of the coat the locations and size of fur insertions and additions. The coat is then removed from beneath the kyles and is altered according to the markings thereon, it being unnecessary to tape the edges before sewing the seams or to pound the seams in order to make them lay fiat and smooth, as the coat has not as yet been wetted and shrunk.

The skin side of the coat is wetted before replacing the coat on the table top skin side up and in approximate alignment with the indicia on said table top and before arranging the kyles in place. With the use of the perforated tacking strips 50 along the front marginal edges 51 of the coat and smoothing out the coat by hand, attachment of the front marginal edges 51 of the coat at the proper size designation is accomplished. During attachment of the front marginal edges 51 of the coat to the table top with the use of the perforated tacking strips and at the desired size designations on said table top, the coat is smoothed out by hand so as to uniformly stretch the skins in the coat. By having the skin side of the coat exposed, additional moisture may be conveniently applied, and all seams may be carefully inspected during the stretching and tacking of the coat on the table top. Upon complete drying of the coat and before removal thereof from the table top, the bottom thereof is marked to the desired length and in accordance with the indicia 30 for squaring off and fiat taping.

From the above, it will be observed that there is an indefinite relationship between different size coats and different requirements of fullness of coat material to produce flares, thus making it extremely difficult to determine the amounts of materials and shapes of the panels to provide the required amount at proper locations for different size and length coats with different size and numbers of flares. With the present apparatus, which blocks in the flares at the same time a particular size and length of a coat is determined, considerable work, together with measuring and fitting time, are dispensed with and coats which fit perfectly and hang properly are readily constructed or restyled.

When his desired to construct or restyle coats without flares with the apparatus or to use the table top for other work, the removable section 19 and the kyles are removed and the removable section 24, shown in Figure 8,

is substituted therefor.

It'is evident that various modifications and changes may be made in the embodiment of the invention herein illustrated and described without departing from the spirit or scope of .the invention as described in the following claims.

What is claimed is:

1. An apparatus for constructing and remodeling fur coats comprising a fiat table top of sufiicient size to receive on the top surface thereof the entire body portion of all normal sized and styled fur coats with dart seams open in order to allow the coat material to lie fiat on said top surface, indicia on the top surface of said table top indicating different sizes and lengths to which edges of the material of coats are fitted, said table top having slots extending therethrough that are tapered in their widths, and flare-shaping members that taper in their depths received and supported in said slots with material of the coat extending under the tapered lower portions thereof while other material of the coat is stretched over the'fiat top surface of the flat table top.

'2. An apparatus in accordance with claim 1, wherein said supports for the flare-shaping members provide adjustments of the depths of protrusion of the tapered lower portions of the flare-shaping members through the slots and relative to the fiat top surface of the table top.

3. An apparatus for constructing and remodeling fur coats comprising a substantially rectangular fiat table top of sufiicient size to receive thereon the entire body portion of all normal sized and styled fur coats with dart seams open to allow the coat material to lie flat on the table top, said table top having an opening therein extending thereacross substantially midway of its length and being of a size substantially the size of the entire back portion of the coat material, a removable section received in said opening and supported flush with the top surface of said table top for bridging the opening in said table top, indicia on the top surfaces of said table top and removable section indicating different sizes and lengths to which edges of the material of coats are fitted, and attaching means for retaining coat materials stretched on the top surfaces of said table top and removable section.

4. An apparatus in accordance with claim 3 wherein tapered slots extend entirely through the removable section, and wherein tapered flare shaping members are received and supported in said slots with material of the coat stretched on the table and removable section and extending under said flare-shaping members.

5. An apparatus in accordance with claim 4 wherein adjustable supporting means are provided for said flareshaping members to determine the depth of protrusion of the flare-shaping members through said slots.

6. An apparatus for constructing and remodelingfur coats comprising a substantially rectangular flat table top of sufiicient size to receive thereon the entire body portion of all normal sized and styled fur coats with dart seams open to allow the coat material to lie fiat on the table top, said table top having a shouldered opening therein extending thereacross substantially midway of its length and being of a size at least equal to that of the back portion of the coat material, a removable section received in and supported by said shouldered opening with the top surface thereof flush with the top surface of the table top, said removable section having elongated slots extending therethrough, elongated flare-shaping members positioned in said slots and having one end thereof supported by said table top, adjustable means for determining the depth of protrusion of the other ends of said flare-shaping members through said slots, and attaching means for retaining coat materials stretched on the top surfaces of the table top and removable section and with portions thereof extending under the flare-shaping members.

7. An apparatus in accordance with claim 6 wherein said adjustable means for one end of each flare-shaping member consists of a spring-actuated bolt removably supported through aligned openings in the table top and removable section for holding said section in place and engaging into any one of a number of spaced openings in the flare-shaping section for adjustment of said flareshaping member.

8. An apparatus for constructing and remodeling fur coats comprising a table top having tapered slots extending entirely through the wall thickness thereof, tapered flare-forming members extending through and centrally supported in said tapered slots, said tapered flare-forming members having substantially semicircular lower edges and being of less thickness than the width of the slots through which they extend, said slots having their upper portions rounded into the top surface of said table top, and attaching means for retaining coat material stretched on the top surface of the table top and with portions thereof extending under the tapered flare-forming members and stretched between the semicircular lower edges of said members and rounded surfaces of the slots and being free from contact with remainder portions of said slots and flare-forming members.

9. An apparatus in accordance with claim 8 wherein said centrally supporting means for said flare-forming members in said slots consists of recessed openings and centering members in engagement with one another and located at both ends of said flare-forming members.

10. A method of constructing and remodeling body portions of fur coats to different sizes, lengths, and styles and having the joining edges of different skins and sections of the body portions blending together smoothly, which consists of placing an unlined body portion of a coat with all dart seams open on a flat table top with the fur side next to the top surface of the table top and the skin side exposed, marking areas on the exposed skin side of the body portion Where pieces of skins are to be removed or inserted for closely approximating indicia on the surface of the table top indicating sizes, lengths, and styles to any of which the edges of the body portion are to be fitted, altering the body portion according to the markings, wetting and stretching tightly the body portion on the table top with the skin side exposed and with the edges of said body portion secured to the table top and adequately extending to the indicia selected for size, length, and style, adding moisture to exposed skin areas where additional stretching and shrinking are desired, and allowing the body portion to remain stretched on the table top during drying and setting of the stretched and shrunken skins and their stretched seams.

11. A method of constructing and remodeling body portions of fur coats to different sizes, lengths, and styles having flares or ripples and having the joining edges of different skins and sections of the body portion blending together smoothly, which consists of placing an unlined body portion of a coat on a flat table top with the fur side next to the top surface of the table top and the skin side in a wet condition exposed, forcing and retaining material of said body portion into recesses in said table top with kyles for producing flares, stretching said body portion tightly on the table top and under the kyles, securing the edges of said body portions at selected indicia on the table top indicating sizes, lengths, and styles, adding moisture to exposed skin areas where additional stretching or shrinking is desired, and allowing the coat to remain stretched on the table top and under the kyles during drying and setting of the stretched and the shrunken skins and their stitched seams.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,917,520 Grey July 11, 1933 2,565,833 Woodruff Aug. 28, 1951 2,608,322 Hansen et al. Aug. 26, 1952 2,623,291 Hay et al. Dec. 30, 1952 

